How to Choose Darts: Weight, Barrel & Flight Guide

Picking up a random set of darts from a bargain bin can work for a casual night, but if you're playing regularly, the right darts make a noticeable difference. The good news is you don't need to spend a fortune — you just need to understand what matters and what doesn't.

This guide breaks down every component of a dart so you can make an informed choice, whether you're buying your first real set or upgrading from a starter kit.

Anatomy of a Dart

Every dart has four parts, from front to back:

1. Point (tip) — the sharp end that sticks in the board
2. Barrel — the main body you grip when throwing
3. Shaft (stem) — connects the barrel to the flight
4. Flight — the fins at the back that stabilize the dart in the air

Each component affects how the dart feels, flies, and lands. Let's go through them one at a time.

Choosing a Barrel

The barrel is the most important part of a dart. It determines the weight, grip, and how the dart sits in your hand.

Material

Dart barrels come in three main materials:

Tungsten is the standard for serious players. Because it's denser than brass, a tungsten barrel can weigh the same as a brass barrel while being significantly slimmer. Slimmer barrels mean tighter groupings — your darts take up less space on the board, so three darts fit more easily into a single segment like treble 20.

Brass darts are fine for a house set or casual play. But if you're practicing regularly, tungsten is worth the upgrade.

Shape

Barrel shapes affect where the weight sits and how the dart feels in your hand:

• Straight — uniform width from front to back. Offers a consistent grip anywhere along the barrel. Popular with players who hold the dart farther back.
• Torpedo (bomb) — wider in the front, tapering toward the back. Puts weight forward for a more nose-down flight. Good for players who grip near the front.
• Scallop — has grooved cutouts that create natural finger positions. Helps with consistency if you like a fixed grip point.
• Tapered — gradually narrows from the center outward. Offers a balanced feel that works for many grip styles.

There's no objectively best shape. It depends on your grip and throwing style. If you're starting out, a straight or slightly tapered barrel is the most versatile choice.

Grip and Knurling

Barrels have textured surfaces to help you hold on. The main types are:

• Ringed — horizontal grooves cut around the barrel. Provides moderate grip and is the most common pattern.
• Knurled — a cross-hatched diamond pattern. Offers aggressive grip that wears down over time.
• Micro-grip — very fine texture, almost smooth. Gives a clean release without your fingers catching.
• Smooth — no texture at all. For players who want the least resistance on release.

If you're unsure, start with a medium ringed grip. It's forgiving and works with most throwing styles.

Choosing a Weight

Dart weight is measured in grams and refers to the barrel weight (flights and shafts add about 1–2 grams on top). Standard steel-tip darts range from 18 to 30 grams, though most players throw between 20 and 26 grams.

Here's a general breakdown:

Start with 22–24 grams if you have no preference. This is the most popular range across all skill levels. It's heavy enough to fly stable but light enough to throw comfortably for long practice sessions.

How Weight Affects Your Throw

Heavier darts require less force to reach the board but follow a more arched trajectory. Lighter darts fly flatter and faster but need more precision to keep on target. Neither is inherently more accurate — it's about matching the weight to your natural throwing motion.

A useful test: throw three darts at the bullseye with your normal technique. If they consistently land low, try going lighter. If they feel like they're floating or veering off course, try going heavier.

Choosing Flights

Flights are the fins at the back of the dart. They stabilize the dart during flight and have a bigger impact than most beginners expect.

Flight Shapes

Standard flights are the largest and generate the most drag. They keep the dart stable and nose-forward, which is great when you're developing consistency. The trade-off is they take up more room at the board, which can deflect incoming darts when you're grouping tightly.

Slim flights are narrower and allow tighter groupings. They require a cleaner throw since they offer less correction in the air.

Start with standard flights and move to smaller shapes as your throw becomes more consistent.

Flight Material

• Poly — standard plastic flights. Cheap, widely available, and last a few sessions before they bend or tear. Buy these in bulk.
• Durable poly (thick) — thicker plastic that holds its shape longer. A small upgrade that's worth it.
• Fabric/nylon — more resistant to damage from incoming darts. Last much longer than poly flights.

Flights are consumable. They wear out and that's normal. Keep spares in your dart case.

Choosing Shafts

Shafts connect the barrel to the flight. Their length and material affect dart balance and trajectory.

Shaft Length

Shorter shafts suit front-weighted barrels. Longer shafts complement rear-weighted or straight barrels. Medium shafts are the safe default.

Shaft Material

• Nylon — cheap, flexible, and the most common. Breaks on impact but costs almost nothing to replace.
• Aluminium — more durable than nylon and adds a bit of weight. Can bend on hard impacts.
• Carbon fibre — lightweight and very strong. Won't bend or snap easily. More expensive.
• Spinning (rotating) — the flight rotates on the shaft, which reduces deflections when darts land close together. Worth trying if your groupings are tight.

Nylon shafts work fine for most players. If you're breaking them frequently, switch to aluminium or carbon fibre.

Putting It All Together

Here's a starter setup that works for most new players:

• Barrel: 80% tungsten, straight or slightly tapered, 23 grams, ringed grip
• Flights: Standard shape, durable poly
• Shafts: Medium length, nylon
• Budget: $30–50

This setup gets you a quality tungsten dart with room to experiment. As you develop your throw, you can swap out flights and shafts to fine-tune how the dart behaves — those parts are cheap and interchangeable.

What to Avoid

Complete dart sets under $15. These are almost always brass with poor-quality flights and shafts. They'll work for a game at a party, but they wear out fast and the thick barrels limit your scoring potential.

Buying based on what a pro uses. Professional players have developed their setups over years to match very specific techniques. Their preferred darts may feel terrible in your hand.

Overthinking your first purchase. Your technique matters far more than your equipment at the early stages. Get a decent tungsten set in the 22–24g range, practice regularly, and refine your setup later when you have a better sense of what you want.

When to Upgrade

You don't need new darts every few months. Consider upgrading when:

• Your barrels are visibly worn and the grip has faded (brass darts wear out faster)
• You've settled on a specific grip style and want a barrel shape that matches it
• Your groupings are tight enough that slimmer barrels would help fit more darts into trebles
• You've tried different weights and want to commit to one that suits your throw

A quality tungsten set can last years. Flights and shafts are the only parts you'll replace regularly.

Try Before You Buy

The best way to find your ideal darts is to throw different ones. If you have friends who play, try their sets. Many local leagues welcome visitors and have house darts in various weights. Some online retailers offer trial sets or money-back guarantees.

Once you've found a setup that feels right, fire up a game on Dartsy and start practicing. Your equipment is only as good as the practice you put in — and now you've got the right tools for the job.